How to Create a Quilted Candy Pouch Tutorial

Hello everyone!! I’m here today to show you how to create a cool quilted candy pouch that seems to be all the craze on my Instagram feed.

These pouches are easy to make and involves some quilting which is always fun. My daughter and nieces love when I make these for them. People think they have candy in them, but they don’t. They keep their money, phone, and whatever young ladies carry in their bookbags.

Take a look at these cute candy pouch:

Candy Pouch: Finished Product

 

Cute right?  We think so over here.

Here’s how you make it:

Materials:

Your Favorite Candy Bag
Thermoweb HeatnBond Vinyl
Aurifil Thread 2024
Quilting Ruler
Cutting Mat
Rotary Cutter
Lining Fabric
Batting
Plastic Zipper
Sew Machine

Candy Pouch: Materials

Step one: Cut the candy bag

The bag’s size is determined by how much you cut off the sides, top, and bottom.

I cut very little to preserve most of the bag.

This candy bag has a sealed side that is about half an inch wide. I cut right up against that on both sides. I’m starting with the right side.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

I cut the left side, but I didn’t cut far enough.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

So I cut again, this time only a slither.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

Now it’s open.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

The top of this bag has the ziplock seal, so do the same and cut right below that.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

The bottom is a bit tricky because it has a square bottom so that it could stand up. So we have to be careful how we cut this. Remember we want to save most of the bag.

Start by cutting a slither at the bottom. It will separate the front and bag of the bag.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

Next, open the bottom to make sure the cut opened the bottom of the bag.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

Once you see the cut, take your time and use a scissor and cut the bottom off at the corners where they met.

Like this, repeat on the three remaining sides.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

Congrats, you have a front and bag panel to make your bag.

Candy Pouch 5: Cut the candy bag

Step Two: Apply vinyl

Lay the top of the candy bag on top of the vinyl and cut the vinyl bigger than the candy bag.

I do this just to make sure the entire candy bag is covered.

Candy Pouch: Apply Vinyl

Peel the paper off of the vinyl and adhere the vinyl to the front of the candy bag.

Candy Pouch: Apply Vinyl

Cut the excess around the edges off. Make sure you do this before you move onto the next step. You will make a mess of your ironing board if you don’t.

Candy Pouch: Apply Vinyl

This is where the magic happens!

Place the paper backing you peeled off back on top of the vinyl cover candy bag, and heat set it.

Follow the manufactures instructions.

Candy Pouch: Apply Vinyl

You now have a sewable candy bag front and back!!

It’s Sewing Time!!!

Step Three: Create a Quilt Sandwich

Place the candy bag front on top of the lining fabric and cut a piece bigger than the candy bag.

Candy Pouch: Create a quilt sandwich

Cut a piece of batting that will sandwich between the front and the lining. You want to see all three layers.

When you quilt this, the layers might shift, you want to make sure you catch all of the layers that is why we cut each layer bigger than the first. Repeat for the back of the bag.

Candy Pouch: Create a quilt sandwich

Step Four: Quilt both pieces

Place the quilt sandwich under the presser foot lining up the right edge of the candy bag with the presser foot’s edge.

I used my patchwork foot because it’s easier for me, and that is what was attached to my machine at the time.

Candy Pouch: Quilt both pieces

Once the first quilted line is down, I attached the ruler guide to equally space out the lines.

If you don’t have a ruler guide, you can use the presser foot as the guide. Just line the right edge up with the previous line to ensure accuracy.

Quilt the entire front and repeat for the back.

Excellent, now you have two quilted pieces.

We are in the home stretch now.

Step 5: Sew the bag

Trim all four edges. Repeat for the second piece.

Make sure both pieces are the same size.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Now you can measure the top of the bag to determine what size zipper you should use.

My bag measured 7 7/8 inches by 8 1/8 inches.

I used a 12-inch zipper. I didn’t have anything smaller.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

I prepare my zippers by folding back the zipper tabs in the front and sewing them in place.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

 

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

I unzip the zipper so that I don’t have to worry about the zipper pull.

I place the zipper face down on the top of the candy bag, lining the zipper’s edge to the edge of the bag.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

After you sew the zipper in place, close the zipper. Fold the closed zipper back so that the top of the bag folds back like the picture below.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Use your hand to press the front of the backdown. You would normally iron this, but you can’t because of the vinyl.

Topstitching will keep the bag folded at the top.

Place the edge of the presser foot up against the fold and stitch straight down. You can change your stitch length but remember to change it back before you sew the other side of the bag.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Place the front of the bag, right sides together with the back of the bag.

Line the zipper edge with the edge of the back panel of the bag. Make sure the right side edge of the bag is lined up as well.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Stitch the zipper in place.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

As you get closer to the zipper pull, lift the presser foot with the needle down and pull the zipper pull out of the way. Continue stitching to the end.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Fold the zipper back to create the fold on the top of the back of the bag.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Topstitch this side of the bag.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

This is what your bag should look like now.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Open the zipper half-way at this point. Make sure you do not skip this step. If you do, you will sew the bag shut. 

Now, fold the bag right sides together and sew from one side, around the bottom, and back up to the top—backstitch at the beginning and the end.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Step Six: Clean up and turn inside out

At this point, if your zipper extends out, cut it off.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Cut corners and trim the edges if they don’t match up.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Now turn the bag inside out.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

You will have to play with the corner a bit because of the vinyl touching each other. Just take your time and ease it out.

Candy Pouch: Sew the bag

Done!!! Now it’s your turn to make one!

Here are other bags I’ve made:

Candy Pouch: Finished Product

Candy Pouch: Finished Product

Candy Pouch: Finished Product

What do you think? Will you make a couple for yourself, family, and friends. Let me know.

Supplies use:

Bernina 570QE

Thanks for stopping by,

 

How to Decorate a Pouch using Different Thread Weights

Hello everyone! Today I’m going to show you how to decorate a pouch using different weight threads.

When I first started sewing, I had no clue thread came in different weights. I thought all thread was the same until I was introduced to Aurifil.

What a game-changer!

Let’s look at my decorated pouch:

Decorate Pouch with Different Thread Weights: Finished Product

The flowers sewn onto the pouch are all created by the same color but in different weights.  Yes, the weight makes a difference.

I used four different weights when making this pouch. I used natural white (2021) in the following weights: 28 wt, 12 wt, 40 wt, and 50 wt.

Decorate Pouch with Different Thread Weights: Finished Product

Let’s explore some more:

28 wt (gray spool):

It’s the second heaviest weight thread that Auriful offers and is perfect for projects such as hand applique, blanket stitch, Machine embroidery, and quilting.

12 wt (red spool):

The heaviest weight thread Aurifil offers are perfect for hand embroidery, embellishments, Sashiko, and machine art quilting.

I love how thick this thread is. Perfect for Sashiko stitching which I love.

40 wt (green spool):

Is a slightly thicker weight and is used for sewing bags, garments topstitching, and machine applique. This is slowly becoming my favorite.

50 wt (orange spool):

This is my go thread for everything, which might change. It a strong and thin thread that is flat and leaves crisp seams. It’s used for almost everything, such as EPP, machine embroidery, whole cloth, mico quilting, and needle turn applique. I love how this thread sinks into the material.

After using all of these different weights, I now understand what they look like together and will let out and try them instead of always reaching for the 50 wt.

Decorate Pouch with Different Thread Weights: Finished Product

Stitching the design:

Decorate Pouch with Different Thread Weights: Materials

  1. Thread the top thread with one of the three threads: 12 wt, 28 wt, or 40 wt.
  2. Load the bobbin with the 50 wt thread.
  3. Decide on a decorative stitch that comes with your sewing machine. On the BERNINA 570 QE, I used decorative stitch 1108.
  4. With each new decorative stitch, I switch out the different weight threads.
  5. Once the stitching is completed, make the pouch.

Decorate Pouch with Different Thread Weights: Finished Product

Such an amazing layer of texture from the different thread weights. What is your favorite thread weight? What are you most comfortable using? Is there a weight that you would love to try? I would love to hear all about it.

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

 

Thank you so much for stopping by,

The Garment District is in my Hometown

Hello everyone!! Did you know the garment district is in my hometown? Yes, I live in NY and love that there are a million and one fabric shops right at my fingertips. This brings me to why I’m here today. I wanted to show you an awesome garment district project that I had so much fun making.

Have you ever tried foundation paper piecing (FPP)? Well, let’s say it was a mind-blowing experience. This was my first time trying, and I’m totally sold. It’s an easy way to complete any project.

Let’s take a look at my mini quilt:

Garment District: Finished Product

Let’s take at this fabric kit:

The garment district quilt is one in a series of New York Mini Quilt Series named after some of Christopher Thompson, the designer of these series, favorite neighborhoods where culture, art, and the latest food collide. He did an amazing job on this design.

It’s full of four bright colors with an ombre look.

Here’s how to create this quilt:

Materials:

Note: Some of the links below contain affiliate links.

Garment District Mini Quilt Kit
Aurifil White Thread
Pins
Cutting Mat
Ruler
Rotary Cutter 
Quilting Ruler
Foundation Piece Paper

Garment District: Materials

Step 1: Print the pattern pieces

Print out each of the four foundation paper pieces on separate pieces of paper.

Step 2: Cut the fabric according to the pattern

Cut out each piece of fabric according to the pattern.

 

Garment District: Cut the fabric

Garment District: Cut the fabric

Step 3: Start the foundation paper piecing

Use a light source to place each piece of fabric on their coordinating number. Place one and two first and sew on the line that connects the two.

Garment District: Start foundation paper piecing

With the fabric in place sew on the line.

Garment District: Start the foundation paper piecing

Cut the excess fabric piece at 1/4 inch.

Garment District: Start foundation paper piecing

Repeat for each of the four pieces.

Step 4: Sew the pieces together

Follow the pattern directions on how to sew each piece together.

Garment District: Start the foundation paper piecing

Step 5: Quilt the top

Sandwich the top, batting and back to be quilted.

You can use gloves to help with the quilting,

Garment District: Quilt the top

or gripper rings. Which over is most convenient.

Garment District: Quilt the top

Step 6: Add Binding

Now it’s time to add the binding to the quilt.

Garment District: Add Binding

Now the Garment District Mini Quilt is done.

Garment District: Finished Product

Garment District: Finished Product

Garment District: Finished Product

Garment District: Finished Product

Garment District: Finished Product

Garment District: Finished Product

Foundation Paper Piecing is so much fun and easy to do. I love the look of the sharp corners. Would you give this a try? I would love to see your mini quilt.

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

Bernina 570QE       
Thank you so much for stopping by!

Embroidered Denim Tote Blank

Hello everyone!! February is here, and I’m pretty excited about it. There are so many things happening this month. It’s Black History Month, Valentine’s Day is in a couple of days, and it’s also National Embroidery Month.

I have so many projects in store for this month. Today, I’m sharing my brand new embroidered denim tote. It looks so cute, and it’s pretty simple to do.

Take a look at my Embroidered Denim Tote:

Live in the Moment: Finished Product

Embroidery adds character to any simple item. I love the white on dark blue.

Here’s what you need:

Materials:

Live in the Moment File
White Isacord Thread
OESD Heavy Weight Tear Away Stabilizer
OESD Expert Embroidery Scissors
Dime Target Stickers
Denim Tote Blank
Embroidery Machine
Sewing Machine

Live in the Moment: Materials

Here’s how to make this denim tote:

Step one: Download the design

Download the design in the file format that your embroidery machine uses. I’m using my Ricoma EM1010, so I downloaded the DST file format.

Step two: Hoop the tote and stabilizer

This denim tote is perfect for this project because the side seams are open, so you can hoop it with ease.

To find the center, fold the tote in have on the long side and the short side and creased the seams.

Place a sticker where the two folds met.

Use the crease lines to line up the arrows on your hoop (in my case, the holes) to make sure the fabric is centered in the hoop.

Live in the Moment: Hoop the tote and stabilizer

Attach the hoop to the machine.

Step three: Export and set up the machine

Export and set up the machine to get ready to stitch the design.

Make sure the needle is positon right above the sticker to make sure it’s centered.

Trace out the design to make sure the presser foot will not hit the hoop.

Step four: Stitch out the design

Since this design was set up to use one color, press start, and the embroidery machine will do the rest.

Live in the Moment: Stitch out the design

Live in the Moment: Stitch out the design

Step Five: Unhoop and clean up the design

Now it’s time to unhoop the blank and clean it up.

Since it’s a tote, just take your time and tear the stabilizer around the design, leaving the stabilizer inside the design.

Cut the threads that you see.

Step Six: Sew the side seams

Iron the tote.

Turn the tote inside out and sew the side seams; remember to backstitch at the beginning.

Done! Your tote is ready to go.

Live in the Moment: Finished Product

This tote is perfect to give as a gift or keep as your own.

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

Ricoma Embroidery Machine EM 1010    Bernina 570QE

Thank you so much for stopping by!

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered Tea Towels

Hello everyone! Happy New Year to all of you! I’m so happy to see all of you in 2021. I’m here today to share my new Hugs and Kisses Embroidered Tea Towels.

I know it’s just January, but Valentine’s Day is really right around the corner. So, why not get ready, now? Why not decorate the house with cute valentine’s day decor or dress up with love on your mind. For the next couple of posts, I will share with you a bunch of different Valentine’s Day goodies.

Ready? Let’s go!

Take a look at my Hugs and Kisses Embroidered Tea Towels:

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Finished Product

 

I love how these turned out. The colors are amazing and I love how they aren’t the traditional red and white either. These will look great in any home.

Here you go:

Materials

Hugs and Kisses Embroidery File
OESD PolyMesh CutAway White
OESD Expert Embroidery Scissors
Isacord Thread Corsage 1840
Isacord Thread Baccarat Green 5115
Isacord Thread Bright Ruby 2300
Isacord Thread Black 0020
Dime Target Stickers
Ricoma EM1010
Tea Towel Blanks

Here’s How to Make Them:

Step one: Download the design

Download the design in the file format that your embroidery machine uses. I’m using my Ricoma EM1010 so I downloaded the DST file format.

Step two: Adjust the design size and orientation to fit your hoop

I want the design to stitch out in the middle of the tea towel, I adjusted the size to fit the middle section of the tea towel.

I also turned my design upside down so that it will stitch out in the correct orientation. That is because I want the excess tea towel to fall in front of the bobbin case, not behind it.

Step three: Export the design

Depending on the embroidery software your using, export the design to your flash drive according to that software instruction.

Step four: Hoop the tea towel

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Hoop the tea towel

Decide on where you want the design to stitch out.

Find the center of the area by folding the tea towel in half longways and by the short side.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Hoop the tea towel

I use sticker dots instead of making the center with a pen. It’s removable and does not leave a mark at all.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Hoop the tea towel

Place the bottom of the hoop down first. Then place the Polymesh stabilizer on top of that.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Hoop the tea towel

Next up is the tea towel, take your time as to not move the stabilizer, and place it straight and even. The last step is to place the top of the hoop over the sandwich, lining up the fold markings on the tea towel with the markings on the hoop.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Hoop the tea towel

Do not pull or stretch the towel because that could cause the stitches to pucker.

Make sure the stabilizer is hooped on all sides.

Step five: Stitch out the design

Set the machine to stitch out the design according to your machine’s instructions.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Stitch out the design

Having a multi-needle machine makes it easier to do a thread color change with ease.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Stitch out the design

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Stitch out the design

Totally amazing design! It looks amazing on this white tea towel.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Stitch out the design

This design has over 20,000 stitches and it took 30 minutes to stitch out at a speed of 750.

Step Six: Unhoop and clean up the design

Now it’s time to unhoop the tea towel and clean it up.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Unhoop and clean up the design

 

Since a cut-away stabilizer was used, now it’s time to cut the excess away and cut the threads.

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Unhoop and clean up the design

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Unhoop and clean up the design

Now that is done, the tea towel is ready for use!

Let’s take another look:

Hugs and Kisses Embroidered: Finished Product

Just in case you don’t know what tea towels are used for, here’s a list:

  1. Give them as a gift
  2. Wrap baked goods or gifts
  3. Line your serving tray
  4. Decorate the table
  5. Use as a hot pad or as a potholder
  6. Store your clean, wet dishes
  7. Drying dishes
  8. Replace paper towels
  9. Repurpose them (next blog post)

So what do you think? Will you create your own embroidery tea towels? I would love to know and please share your finished products.

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

Be Mine Ricoma Embroidery Machine EM 1010

Thanks for stopping by!

Easy To Make Baby Bibs

Hello everyone! I’m here today after a bit of a break for some much-needed rest and relaxation, to show you some easy-to-make baby bibs!

Baby’s are so much fun to make things for. They are small in size and need so many different things to keep them clean, safe, and warm. Bibs help with all of that. They keep the spit up and food off of their clothes. That extra layer can keep them warm.

Let’s take a look at some baby bibs:

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Now, tell me you don’t think these bibs aren’t cute. Perfect for a newborn baby.

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Let’s take a look at this fabric collection:

Sleep Tight by Gabrielle Neil for Riley Blake Designs combines two different colors, mint and coral, with teddy bears, modern painterly textures, and highlights of sparkle. Totally beautiful. It comes with eighteen prints and two fabric panels.

Here’s how to create these bibs:

Materials:

Note: Some of the links below contain affiliate links.

Sleep Tight Fabric
Terry Cloth
Aurifil White Thread
Dritz Pearl Snaps
Dritz Pearl Snaps Pliers
Pins
Cutting Mat
Ruler
Rotary Cutter

Step 1: Create your pattern template

Take a bib that you like and trace around it onto a piece of cardstock.

Cut that template out.

Step 2: Cut the fabric

Using that template, cut out 1 front panel from one of the prints from the Sleep Tight Fabric and 1 back panel from the terry cloth.

Step 3: Prepare the fabric for sewing

Place the pattern piece and the terry cloth right sides together and pin.

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

 

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Leave a 4-inch hole at the bottom for turning.

Step 4: Sew the bib

Use a quarter-inch sewing machine foot, and sew a quarter inch seam allowance around the entire bib leaving the hole at the bottom.

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Step 5: Turn the fabric

After sewing the bib together, turn the entire thing around and stitch up the opening using an edgestitch foot.

Step 6: Attach the pearl snap for closure

With the Dritz snap tool, attach the pearl snap to the bib flaps to have a pretty closure.

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Nicely done! Very simple and easy to make.

Let’s Take a Closer Look:

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product Easy To Make Baby Bibs: Finished Product

Now it’s your turn! How many of these will you make?

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

Bernina 570QE       

Thank you so much for stopping by!

Baby Hats, 2 Ways!

Hello everyone! I’m here today with a super cute project, baby hats, yay!! It’s getting colder, and we definitely want to make sure our little ones’ heads are covered at all times. 

Do you remember those hats babies are given in the hospital when they are born? They were striped make out of a loose-knit material. Well, the ones I’m going to show you today are much more stylish and super easy to make.

Let’s take a look at these baby hats, 2 different ways:

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Finished Product

How cute are these? They are warm too. This knit fabric is amazing and fun. 

Let’s take about this fabric collection:

 

These prints are apart of the Cute Cuddle Knit collection for Riley Blake Designs. They are a stretch cotton jersey knit fabric with about a 50% four-way stretch for added comfort and ease. They have 36 different knits in this collection. 

Both hats are a perfect match for this fabric collection. I have to be honest with you, I wanted to make a ton of baby clothes with this fabric to go along with these hats, but that’s a conversation for my next blog post. Let’s just say I’m still ripping out a sleeve, LOL!! Stay tuned for that. 

Now, back to the hats!

Basic Baby Hat:

This hat is so the easiest hat to make, and you can make tons of them in an hour or so. I used a free pattern from Dana at MadeEveryDay. You can find it here.

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Finished Product

I love this pattern because of the dart that you create in the hat. It gives the hat more structure. 

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Finished Product

Knotted Baby Hat:

Check out that knot! 

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Finished Product

Now, this hat is fun. Instead of the dart, just alter the pattern by adding a tube to the top of the pattern, sew and tie the top.

 

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Finished Product

These are perfect gifts to give a mom to be for the baby’s stay in the hospital. It beats the one the hospital gives you. Perfect for those first pictures. LOL!

Take another look:

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Pair

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Pair

Baby Hat Designer Knit: Pair

 

So what do you think? Would you make these hats for a loved one, as a gift, or for your own baby? Please let me know.

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

  Bernina 570QE       

 

Thank you so much for stopping by!

GRL PWR Tote Bag and Pouches

Hello everyone! I’m here today with a brand new GRL PWR Tote Bag and Pouches! This fabric collection is so vibrant and full of joy. It was fun cutting into and creating.

I’m always in need of totes and pouches, especially since we cannot use plastic bags here in NYC. So why not go to the store with a fashionable tote or pouch! On top of that, it says GRL PWR, which makes a statement everyone I go.

Let’s take a look at my reversible bag and pouches:

Tell me these aren’t cute! I’m so giddy. The best part is the tote is reversible. Yes, you can turn it inside outside.

Let’s talk about this fabric collection:

Grl Pwr is a fantastic fabric collection from Amber Kemp-Gerstel. This collection celebrates Amber’s love of quirky, colorful patterns and the beauty of diversity. This fabric collection is made up of 24 pattern prints.

Tote:

I used a free pattern created by Very Shannon called the Reversible Box Tote. You can find the pattern here. To create this bag, follow the direction in the pattern.

I will share my process photos below:

Prepare the pattern and cut your fabric.

 

 

Here are the cut pieces and thread. I changed my mind and went with white thread instead.

Sew the pocket.

You should have two pockets—one for the outside of the bag and one inside the bag.

Sew the pocket to the exterior fabric.

Sew the exterior and interior pieces together according to the pattern—Box the corners.

Now it’s time to put the bag together.

Fold the top edges down on both pieces.

Sew them together.

Once the bag is complete. Add a design to both pockets.

Let’s take another look:

Pouches:

For these pouches, cut the fabric, lining, and fusible fleece to 5 inches x 10 inches.

I used this beautiful colorful fabric for these pouches.

They are simple pouches with a plastic zipper.

Inside has a matching print.

 

The tote and pouches turned out so beautifully. The fabric is a perfect selection for this. What will you create?

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

Bernina 570QE       
Thank you so much for stopping by!

How to Make a Quilted Travel Roll

Hello everyone!! I’m here today with a super cute quilted travel roll tutorial as a part of the Aurifil Artisan November Challenge – Hand Quilting!

Traveling is one of my favorite things to do. I usually travel at least 3 times a year. I love seeing different places and meeting new people. One of my goals is to visit every country at least once.

COVID-19 has put a halt to my travel plans. I was supposed to take a class in Portland during March, spend my birthday in Aruba in April, and have fun with my sister and our children in Belize and Mexico in August. None of that happened, and I can’t wait till we get to jet-set again.

While we wait for the green light to travel again safely, I am getting ready by making some new cute travel quilted rolls, and I’m going to show you how.

Take a look at my quilted travel roll:

Now I have to say, I don’t wear a lot of jewelry, but when I travel, I want to make sure I have all of the items that I do wear or would like to wear with the outfits in my suitcases. This case stores my jewelry in a safe, scratch-free place.

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

Here’s how I created this quilted travel roll:

 Materials:

2 Coordinating Fat Quarters – Honey Bee Collection
Batting
Aurifil Floss – 2140
Aurifil 12wt – 2140
Pins
Sewing Machine (BERNINA 570 QE)
90/14 Topstitch needle
Quilting Ruler
Cutting Mat
Studio Carta Tight Weave Cotton Ribbon – Marigold
Studio Carta Cotton Ribbon – Marigold
Fabric Pen/Chalk
Scissors
Sashiko Sewing Needle

Quilted Travel Roll: Materials

Let’s begin:

Step 1: Cutting fabric

Cut fabric and batting to 20 inches x 10 inches.

Step 2: Create a quilt sandwich

Lay the bottom fabric (exterior fabric) down first, the wrong side facing up.

Then place the batting on top of that.

Place the top fabric (interior fabric) on top of the batting, right side facing up.

Quilted Travel Roll-Create a quilt sandwich

Pin in place.

Quilted Travel Roll-Create a quilt sandwich

Step 3: Prepare the fabric for hand quilting

Using a quilting ruler, draw a centerline horizontally across the fabric using a fabric pen or chalk if your fabric is dark.

Quilted Travel Roll: Prepare the fabric for hand quilting

Measure 2.5 inches from the short edge and draw a vertical line. Next, measure 5 inches from that line and draw another line. Repeat till the end.

Step 4: Hand quilt

Thread a sashiko sewing needle with Aurifil Floss 2140 and begin hand stitching on all of the drawn lines.

Quilted Travel Roll: Hand Quilt

The rule of thumb is to measure the thread by the length of your arm.

Quilted Travel Roll: Hand Quilt

Step 5: Add binding

I used Studio Carta Marigold Tight Weave Cotton Ribbon for the binding. Place one edge of the ribbon against the raw edge of the quilted fabric and pin.

Go around the entire piece, create a mitered corner at each corner.

Quilted Travel Roll: Add binding

Pin the ribbon on the inside of the binding and in the middle of the roll.

Quilted Travel Roll: Add binding

Step 6: Sew the binding

Sew the binding a quarter inch around the entire piece.

Quilted Travel Roll: Sew the binding

When you finish, change the top and bobbin thread to Aurifil 12wt thread.

I sew with a BERNINA 570 QE sewing machine, and they have a high thread tension bobbin case (golden-yellow bobbin case), which allowed me to add the 12wt thread in the bobbin.

Change the needle to a new 90/14 Topstitch needle.

Quilted Travel Roll: Sew the binding

Fold the binding over to the back and stitch in place.

Quilted Travel Roll: Sew the binding

Step 7: Stitch the ribbon on the inside

 

This step could have taken place when the hand quilting was happening, but I decided to do it now. 

Change out the top thread and the bobbin thread to a microfilament thread so that you can’t see the thread on either side.

Quilted Travel Roll: Stitch the ribbon on the inside

Stitch the two ribbons on the inside.

Complete!

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

Here’s how I use it:

I tie my bracelets with the hanging ribbon and hanging my necklaces from the broad ribbon.

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

 

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

I hook my earing to the broad ribbon.

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

 

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

Super cute and fun!

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

Quilted Travel Roll: Finished Product

So what do you think? I hope this inspires you to try and make your own quilted travel roll.

Supplies used:

There are some compensated affiliate links used at no cost to you. 

 

Bernina 570QE
Thank you so much for stopping by!

It’s A Crayola World Curtains

Hello everyone! I’m here today to show you my brand new It’s A Crayola World Curtains!

Yes, I made some curtains for my small craft space. The great thing about them is the color. They match the colors on my wall. They were so easy to make, I know for sure you can create some for yourself.

Let’s take a look at my curtains:

Finished curtains

I’m giddy with glee. Look at how cute they are.

Let’s talk about this fabric collection:

     

Five amazing fabric panels were inspired by nature and loaded with color. The amazing thing about these images, you will find Crayola® crayons blended into the artwork. It’s amazing. My sisters stopped by when I was working on the curtains; they were blown away by the crayons they spotted in the flowers.

This collection is the newest official licensed fabric line from Crayola®.

Here’s how to create these curtains:

curtain materials

Materials:

Note: Some of the links below contain affiliate links.

It’s a Crayola World fabric
Sewing Machine
Matching Thread
Cutting Mat
Pins
Rotary Cutter
Curtain Grommets
Scissor
Ruler

Step 1: Cut the panels

Cut the panels into two pieces. They measure 36 inches by the WOF.

cut the fabric

Step 2: Prepare the panels

Double hem three sides of the panel by a 1/2 inch.

double hem

For the top hem, fold the raw edge over a 1/2 inch and press. Fold 3 inches and press again.

Step 3: Sew the hems

Using the 10D# Edgestitch Bernina presser foot, sew on the panel’s right side as close to the folded edge.

sew on the right side

Repeat on all sides.

Step 4: Prepare the top edge for grommets

Measure the width of the fabric and multiply it by the number of grommets you want to use.

The grommet will be placed at 4.25, 8.50, 12.75, 17.25, 21.50, 25.75, and 30.25 inches.

equally measure grommets

equally measure grommets

Using the template that comes with the grommets, draw circles at the points above.

draw circles

Cut the circles out.

cut circles

Step 5: Adhering the grommets

adhering grommets

Place one side of the grommet underneath the circle and one on top.

adhere grommets

Snap the grommets into place.

adhere grommets

adhere grommets

Repeat for all of them.

Step 6: Finish the curtains

Press both curtains and snip any loss threads.

Done!! This is an afternoon project, and you can do it.

finished curtains

Now it’s your turn!

Supplies used:

  Bernina 570QE              
Thank you so much for stopping by!